Between el DF and Toluca – Little Known Estado de México
A winter drive in the Valle de Toluca…
Stunning San Jerónimo Acazulco, Estado de México
San Miguel Almaya
Translated from Isaac Vasquez‘s original at eldefe.com.
January 11 of 2010 was marked on my calendar with a red pen: the return to classes, the end of the idle and disorderly life that I’ve been maintaining since mid-December. In order to sing Las Golondrinas “The Wanderers” – appropriately in this vacation season (and to take a stand against the cold, which is lately the subject of the national conversation) I decided that it was a good moment to go to La Marquesa and to breathe the frozen rustic air.
My original plan was to return to my favorite valley in the park (el Valle del Conejo – the Valley of the Rabbit), a deficiency at driving directions caused your servant and another collaborator from Eldefe.com an enormous error in turns ended up paying off in a little-known zone of Estado de México. Crossing mountains into the Valley of Toluca – through colorful forests, wagon towns and not at all well travelled valleys of La Marquesa, the highway towards San Pedro Atlapulco crossed ample yellow fields under an almost-summery sun, everything idyllic in tone.
Toluca in the distance from the tiny hamlet of Coamilpa
By mere whim, and the skillful management of a few bends in the road, we arrived at San Miguel Almaya, a small town in the skirts of what we suppose was a volcanic cone – today but a small mountain covered with pines. And although the villagers seemed a bit suspicious we continued towards Coamilpa, a small village with more or less seven streets and in which two friendly children with a red ball approached to see us while we enjoyed an enviable view towards Toluca from the village basketball court.
Returning to the highway, we arrived to Capulhuac de Mirafuentes, a town rather greater than it seems at first and bearing a remarkable similarity with Cuautitlán, perhaps the reason I felt rather at home. After a fast visit to the zocalo and the Oxxo and the central market we continued on towards Ocoyoacac, passing on the way through San Nicholas Tlazala.
Capulhuac de Mirafuentes
We didn’t pause in either town but we made up for it in wonderful San Jerónimo Acazulco. It could be described as Pueblo Magico waiting to be discovered – very small, nailed to the top of its little mountain, with narrow crooked street, adorned with hanging colored papers. A church at the very top of the town and the highest tree mangled… in short, bringing together the finest qualities for the towns tiny size. The cold bit in deeper from the mountains and so we asked how to return to La Marquesa and defied a curvaceous mountain route with breathtaking views until we were again in the park. Only a few minutes later the shining Towers of Santa Fe disregarded us: such is the greeting for those who arrive in Mexico City from Toluca.
San Jerónimo Acazulco
It is curious to thing that between these two enormous cities there exists this constellation of pueblos and villages, each with its own particular enchantments whether it be a church or a view of the lake or the forest. Passing into Mexico City, each vibrates totally differently. This region of Estado de México feels like it’s left its problems hanging in the toll booth back on the highway and that it’s given in completely to the pleasures of the countryside.
Alas – it was cold as hell and the holidays have passed and the routine of normal life rebounds. But if you find the stress and anxiety of city living oppressive – a little weekend trip can do wonders. Don’t hesitate to explore – this one of the least well known place in going into in the strangers place in Estado de México – exactly between Toluca and our fair city: a trip that can be made in a single day, nothing far but highly rewarding.
Scroll down for a map of the route and the locations of the places mentioned in this entry.
The Zocalo in San Jerónimo Acazulco
Please give us a sec while the valle de toluca map is loading up.
